Wadi Rum

The pilgrimage continues. My dad's narrative in blue; my comments in black.

Wadi Rum is a vast desert at the southern end of Jordan, near the border with Saudi Arabia. A highlight to all visitors to Jordan, it has spectacular desert views and is a protected area. The area was made famous by TE Lawrence and the Arab Revolt in the early 20th century, and much of the movie Lawrence of Arabia was filmed here.

Some of the specific historic and natural sites here include a Nabataean temple, Lawrence’s Spring (TE Lawrence wrote about it in his book Seven Pillars of Wisdom), various siqs (several may be seen in the photographs), rock formations, and of course the ever-changing sand dunes.

It is as timeless today as any day. While a visitor might see tire tracks in the sand, it takes only a breeze to restore its pristine condition. Countless camel caravans have passed here, and travelers over the centuries have left their marks in the rocks. [See photos below.]

Our driver arranged for us to spend the night in a Bedouin camp and to tour the desert from the back of a four-wheel drive truck. Both experiences seem to be popular. We arrived at the camp late in the morning where we met our truck driver, then we headed for the desert where both our drivers (the truck at Wadi Rum and the car throughout Jordan) prepared a fabulous lunch of chicken over an open fire. We meanwhile meandered next to the rocks and in the sand.

I liked the fact that even in major cities like Amman, there were small shops on the streets full of cages of chickens. People picked out the chicken they wanted and the keepers then went and butchered the chicken fresh.

We then continued our tour through the desert with so many beautiful and historic sites, and we quietly ended our tour atop a rock formation and watched as the sun slowly set. We then returned to the camp, met some interesting Jordanians (including some government officials as well as an Egyptian Coptic who was working at the camp), enjoyed some local cuisine (including some camel’s milk), and conversed with travelers from throughout Europe.

The Egyptian Copt seemed particularly happy to see an Orthodox priest and, since I had gotten pretty sunburnt at Petra, loaned me his keffiyeh and helped me put it on for our trip out into the desert. We had an interesting conversation with him that evening about the frightening situation for Christians in Egypt as a result of the Arab Spring.

The climate is so arid and the sky so clear that one sees many more stars at night than we might have imagined possible. One can better understand, perhaps, why shepherds over the centuries have so many stories about the stars and have imagined so many constellations.

This experience, as well as traversing the desert, riding donkeys and camels, feeling the omnipresence and power of Rome (we were reminded of this by visits to Jerash and other cities of the decapolis), and indeed just sensing the forbidding surrounds of desert bring us closer to the experiences of those who witnessed and felt the same experiences two millennia ago. All in all, these were valuable parts of our pilgrimage.

Lawrence's prison was set up here in this crevice.

My dad riding around in the back of the pick-up truck.

Our Bedouin driver showed us how one of the desert's sparse plants is a natural soap. We just ground it with a rock and then rubbed it in our hands with some water to wash up.

Here my Dad is trying to read ancient Thamudic, left by camel caravans.

Early the next morning, in the surprising cold and darkness, we mounted camels and rode for nearly an hour to reach higher ground where we quietly awaited sunrise. Other visitors from different camps arrived along with us, and it indeed appeared as a camel caravan. Picture it: sitting on a camel in the middle of the desert awaiting a sunrise!

We departed Wadi Rum upon returning to camp early in the morning and began our four-hour journey back to Amman to conclude our last full day in Jordan. As we drove along the desert highway, we could see so many examples of how much had changed, especially since the founding of Jordan following the Second World War, and yet how much had remained unchanged since ancient times.

Next stop: Amman's Citadel.

For many more photos from Wadi Rum, click here.

Little Petra

Again, my dad's comments are in blue.

Little Petra is located a short distance from the town of Wadi Musa, a suburb actually. Only when measured against Petra proper does one think “little.” It is within the same canyon or geological bowl, and it includes outstanding natural rock features as well as tombs and other sites carved from the stone, only this stone is more white than the heavy rose color of Petra.

Scholars speculate that Little Petra served a more commercial function, although there are a significant number of tombs, cisterns, aqueducts as well as biclinia and triclinia. The facade at the entry is both magnificent and simple, and as one enters more deeply into Little Petra (Al-Beidha), the walls of the canyon close ever-so tightly so that not even a camel can pass; this entry is known as Siq al-Barid.. These narrow crevices then open again into natural courtyards -- there are three of them.

The walk through this ancient city is breathtaking and helps remind us again of the capabilities and sense of community of these ancient peoples. The second courtyard, for example, seems to have been a place for feasting, for there are numerous biclinia or triclinia (dining areas). (See a triclinium below.)

One of the rooms, for example, contains the only known example of Nabatean painting, a frescoed ceiling. To preserve this fresco it was protected by iron bars.

Again the various niches, caves and natural formations are connected by stairways carved in the stone throughout Little Petra.

Here, we are climbing to what appears to be another place of sacrifice, located at a high point in the area. Below, my dad stands on the spot and surveys the city below.

The visit to Little Petra only confirmed the strong sense of community experienced by the Nabateans, as well as provided more evidence of their ingenuity and energy. They were an important people in an important place, and a better understanding of their culture helps us understand the peoples of ancient Middle East.

As we left the Valley of Moses (Wadi = valley, Musa = Moses) we stopped to appreciate a panoramic view of the area. At the highest point, in the upper left of the photo, is Jabal Haroun or Aaron’s Mountain, the Mount Hor of the Old Testament, and it is believed to be the site of Aaron’s Tomb. A careful look will reveal a small, white area where the monument reflects the light of the bright sun. In the valley below you see nothing to reveal what is there. Petra, the red-rose city, was also a hidden city.

Thus the entire city was invisible to the many traders who passed on this important ancient route from Egypt to Syria. Scholars speculate that the Nabateans staged raids on the caravans from this hidden city.

Before we leave Petra and Little Petra, I just wanted to note an interesting theory regarding St. Paul's three-year period in "Arabia" after his conversion. According to this theory, which is laid out well and concisely explained here, St. Paul spent at least some of this time evangelizing the people of Arabia, which was not some empty wasteland of desert, but included the very advanced people of the Nabatean Kingdom and its capital, Petra. The Nabatean Kingdom also included Jews and synagogues. This would then help explain why the powerful Nabatean king, Aretas IV, goes to the trouble of trying to have St. Paul killed in Damascus, as St. Paul himself tell us in 2Cor 11:32-33. To me, this theory is very plausible.

For more photos from Little Petra, click here.

Petra

The tale resumes, finally, this time with the help of my dad, whose narrative will appear in blue.

The Great Wall of China ranks first among the existing Wonders of the World. Petra ranks second. Built by the ancient Nabateans from the period beginning in the 6th century BC, it was "discovered" by the outside world only in the early 19th century, and locals (i.e., people who at least claim to be Bedouin) continued to live in the various caves and tombs until the mid-1980s. More recently Petra served as the setting for the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. For visitors to Jordan, whether on pilgrimage or not, Petra is “must see.” It is one of the great archaeological treasures in the world.

We left Kerak Castle late in the day and arrived well after dark at the town of Wadi Musa where the entrance to Petra is located. Very early the next day we began one of the longest days of our trip. We began our “entry” to the ancient city on horseback (Arabian horses they said), which carried us to the Siq, a long, narrow opening in the rocks through which we walked over half a mile. Proceeding through this Siq only added to the anticipation of what was to be seen, as well as displayed examples of the engineering ability of the ancient Nabateans, as seen through their various aqueducts. There were natural rock formations that also added to the wonder of it all.

Above, my dad is posing at a point along the Siq. Like many things from this ancient city, no one is exactly sure what its original purpose was, but the theory we heard was that it was a place where marriages were performed. The couple stood in the stalls behind my dad and the priest (?) stood where my dad is standing and united their hands (?).

After a long walk in the shade of the crevice, one reaches the opening as the sun shines directly on the most famous monument of Petra: the Treasury. It is not a structure, but rather it was carved from solid rock, as were most of the monuments and tombs of Petra. The architectural style reflects influences from several corners of the ancient world: Hellenic, Hellenistic, Egyptian and more, plus the execution of the sculpture reflect the skill and commitment of the ancient Nabateans. The "Treasury" is actually a misnomer. Like almost all the remaining monuments in Petra, it was almost certainly a tomb for royalty and/or the wealthy.

Beyond the Treasury one could see the Street of Facades, revealing a series of tomb monuments carved from the sandstone, the Theater, which could seat nearly 7,000, a series of Royal Tombs, including the largest of the Royal Tombs, the Urn Tomb. (See below.)

Above, the theater.

We also visited what little remains of “constructed” Petra. Certainly the Theater would be constructed, but there are remains of a Nymphaeum, the Great Temple, a Temple of Winged Lions, a beautiful Colonnaded Street and more.

Visiting these and other historical sites in Jordan required a good deal of walking (see for example, the “hike” required to visit Machareas). We enjoyed the walk through the Siq and through much of the open area. In order to see as much as possible in one long day, we “rented” two donkeys, who escorted us to the distant Monastery in about a third of the time required to walk, and then back again, carrying us to the Sextius Florentinus Tomb, the only tomb in Petra in which it is known for whom it was built. With stops for various sites along the way, we spent about five hours in the ancient mode of transportation. It saved time!

One of the stops on our donkey tour was the "Monastery," which is possibly more impressive than the Treasury. We were able to climb inside and look around, although there wasn't much to see besides four walls. It's theorized that this was once a temple.

No one knows what happened to the Nabateans, but they seem to have disappeared from history at some point. Their city, however, was not abandoned, as it was used by the Romans. Many churches were developed under the "Byzantines" (i.e., Romans), including the ones in the photos here. The 5th century churches in Petra were quite similar to the other ones we saw throughout Jordan on our pilgrimage, with the same type of mosaic work in the floors, inspired by contemporary trends. Above, for example, the floor has personified seasons, animals, etc.

Above, a small altar in what appears to be a side chapel. The altar as you see it has been reconstructed.

Another church from the period, built with columns of rare blue marble from Egypt.

The donkeys next to us up the High Place of Sacrifice, which -- as the names implies -- was quite a hike. We were grateful for the transportation. Above, my dad standing behind what they think was an altar for animal sacrifice. Below, my dad walking away from the altar. They think that the circle you see in the foreground was used to somehow drain blood from sacrificed animals.

Continuing from this point, we descended narrow pathways and stairways cut into the rock, which eventually returned us from above the Treasury to the area near the Colonnaded Street below. We thus hiked high and low for over four hours after leaving our beloved donkeys!

We walked back to the Siq from which we had emerged early in the day, at the front of the Treasury. It was difficult to turn your back on this beautiful site and walk away. By the time we retraced our steps back out through the Siq, the day was over.

We were unable to visit the site of Aaron’s tomb. Located at the top of a mountain accessible only by foot, it was estimated to be a four-to-five hour walk -- perhaps half that by donkey, but still requiring an additional day.

After a good meal of local cuisine, we slept soundly and got an early start for yet another long day: Little Petra and Wadi Rum.

For many more photos from Petra, click here.

Stylite Tower, Machaerus, and Kerak Castle

About 2 km outside the ancient city of Umm ar-Rasas stands a 15-meter-tall Stylite Tower, at the top of which is a small room where a monastic spent his life. The inside of the tower is not hollow, so the only way to reach the top seems to have been by a removable ladder. In the photo above, you can see one of the cross etched into the side of the tower.

This particular tower was set out by itself, 2 km from the town. There, the monk lived at the top of the tower, praying. Any food or water he received had to be brought to him by someone and hauled up by rope. Frequently, these sites became major sources of pilgrimage, in which the faithful would ask for the holy man's prayers or spiritual advice. I highly recommend reading the life of St. Symeon the Stylite, which is available in an excellent translation by my former professor.

Our next stop was Machaerus (modern day Mukawir), one of Herod's fortresses (like the famous Masada), where St. John the Baptist was imprisoned and beheaded. Above and below are the views from the top. You can see the Dead Sea about 8 km to due west.

Here are the ruins of the fortress on top of the hill . The columns mark the hall of Herod's palace, where Salome danced for Herod and then requested St. John the Baptist's head. This was also the fortress where St. John was imprisoned and beheaded.

St. Mark 6:14-29:

¹⁴ And King Herod heard of it, for His name had become well known; and people were saying, “John the Baptist has risen from the dead, and that is why these miraculous powers are at work in Him.” ¹⁵ But others were saying, “He isElijah.” And others were saying, “He is a prophet, like one of the prophets of old.” ¹⁶ But when Herod heard of it, he kept saying, “John, whom I beheaded, has risen!”

¹⁷ For Herod himself had sent and had John arrested and bound in prison on account of Herodias, the wife of his brother Philip, because he had married her. ¹⁸ For John had been saying to Herod, “It is not lawful for you to have your brother’s wife.” ¹⁹ Herodias had a grudge against him and wanted to put him to death and could not do so; ²⁰ for Herod was afraid of John, knowing that he was a righteous and holy man, and he kept him safe. And when he heard him, he was very perplexed; ^[l]but he ^[m]used to enjoy listening to him. ²¹ A strategic day came when Herod on his birthday gave a banquet for his lords and ^[n]military commanders and the leading men of Galilee; ²² and when the daughter of Herodias herself came in and danced, she pleased Herod and ^[o]his dinner guests; and the king said to the girl, “Ask me for whatever you want and I will give it to you.” ²³ And he swore to her, “Whatever you ask of me, I will give it to you; up to half of my kingdom.” ²⁴ And she went out and said to her mother, “What shall I ask for?” And she said, “The head of John the Baptist.” ²⁵ Immediately she came in a hurry to the king and asked, saying, “I want you to give me at once the head of John the Baptist on a platter.” ²⁶ And although the king was very sorry, yet because of his oaths and because of ^[p]his dinner guests, he was unwilling to refuse her. ²⁷ Immediately the king sent an executioner and commanded him to bringback his head. And he went and had him beheaded in the prison, ²⁸ and brought his head on a platter, and gave it to the girl; and the girl gave it to her mother. ²⁹ When his disciples heard about this, they came and took away his body and laid it in a tomb.

Another view from the top of the fortress.

Next we headed south down the famous King's Highway, the extremely important ancient trade route between Egypt and Syria, dating back 5000 years. We passed through Dhiban, the ancient capital of Moab and the home of the famous Mesha Stele, commemorating the Moabite victory over Israel around 850 BC.

In something of a common theme for this area, villagers found the stele, amazingly perfectly intact after 2000 years, in the 1860s. Greed and ignorance, however, would soon undo this. Realizing that the Europeans would be interested in it, the villagers tried to start a bidding war between the French and the Germans. Either because the villagers had a dispute among themselves about who would get the money, or because they realized they could get paid more if they sold the stele in individual pieces (as happened when the Bedouin ripped the intact Dead Sea Scrolls into tiny pieces), they decided to smash the stele.

After passing through Dhiban, we hit "Jordan's Grand Canyon," Wadi Mujib, which was the dividing line in biblical times between the Moabites and the Edomites.

This took us down to Kerak Castle, the siege of which may be famous from the film Kingdom of Heaven. We watched this film when we returned to Thessaloniki and, although I would say it's worth watching (only the Director's Cut, though -- the theatrical version cut was made confusing by all the cuts), it's heavily influenced by the director's modern ideology. As one reviewer perfectly put it: "An epic about Christian crusaders who happen to be liberal humanists willing to die for the sake of religious tolerance."

Above is a photo of the castle's dungeon, which once hosted several rulers. Above, you can see scratches into the wall, probably depicting the number of days, weeks, months, or years that had passed.

Above, my dad inside Kerak Castle. Behind him to the left are the remnants of its main Catholic church.

Above, my dad scaling the walls!

Another view of the remnants of the main Catholic church.

For more photos from this day, click here.